We tasted: Cattier Clos du Moulin

The Cattier family has a long tradition in creating exceptional wines, 1625 being the year when they had started to work their vineyard in Chigny-les-Roses, a beautiful village in Montagne de Reims. Since then, 12 generations contributed their hard work and dedication for the growth of the Cattier house. Now, the management has passed to the 13th generation, headed by Alexander Cattier, his cousin Agathe, and Marie, the brand’s ambassador. The family’s cellars established in Rilly-la-Montagne are more than 150 years old and among the deepest in Champagne (almost 30 metres deep); they were excavated over three different levels, with three distinct styles of architecture: Gothic, Roman and Renaissance. During the German invasion at the Second World War they served as shelter for many villagers. 

In 1950, Jean and Nelly Cattier, Alexander’s grandfathers, acquired the Clos du Moulin, one of the only few rare historical clos in the Champagne region. He restored the 2.2 hectares parcel that was destroyed during the wars. He produced his first wine from this parcel in 1952, his first bottling in 1953 and his first sale in 1956. It was, at the time, one of the two clos produced and sold in the Champagne region (Clos des Goisses from Philipponnat being the first one in 1935). In all Champagne region there are only 31 clos.

Now let’s focus on this particular cuvée: Clos du Moulin Premier Cru. The expert team at Cattier has taken three vintages, selected for their ability to age gracefully, and blended them into a wine which reflects their unique origins. We tasted the 2008, 2009 and 2012 blend, 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. In the flûte it looks very elegant with a beautiful light gold color and abundant tiny bubbles. It’s still fresh but complex with a nose dominated by stone fruits notes and white flowers. A bit of vanilla too. On the palate it reveals its special character, toasty and creamy with a curious hint of salinity at the end that makes you want more and more. It’s very interesting how it will develop with the time. We also tasted the rosé version of this Clos du Moulin cuvée, but this will make the subject of a future post.