We tasted: Mumm de Cramant

latest version, tasting in May 2020, Madrid, Spain
older version, tasting in April 2020, Madrid, Spain

Maison Mumm… this popular champagne house needs no presentation, it’s so famous that even people not truly familiarized with champagne know about it. Established since 1827 in Reims, by Gottlieb, Jacobus and Philipp, the three sons of Peter Arnold Mumm who already had launched a business as wine producer and merchant based in Cologne, Germany, the champagne house always looked up for excellence. Their motto was from the beginning “only the best” regarding terroir, grapes, method and marketing in wine business. Given that, it’s not surprising that illustrious royal families across Europe, including those of Austria-Hungary, Belgium, Prussia, the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden and Norway, were captivated by the Maison Mumm style and since 1904 it has stayed as official supplier of champagne to the British royalty, and now to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. This is evidenced by the Royal Warrant decorating the neck of its bottles.

Let’s talk now about this great cuvée. “Mumm de Cramant” is a very special cuvée based only on grapes from Cramant, a Grand Cru village from Côte des Blancs. For its elaboration the house only uses the best selected grapes (100% Chardonnay) and follows a method dating back to 1882, proper to the old Crémant de Cramant, a sparkling wine from the region, similar to champagne. You may be curious to know that before the establishment of the AOCs in France, sparkling wines in Champagne were sometimes called crémant, and other regions could use the champagne name. The crémant name was used to define sparkling wines with a thinner mousse due to lower levels of pressure in the bottle. Even if the label doesn’t specify, all the cuvées Mumm de Cramant are vintages, for each edition being used only grapes from a specific harvest. We have tasted Mumm de Cramant in various occasions, most of them dating from no more than 10-15 years ago, but we also had the chance to taste a version from the 90s. The latest cuvées are crisp and fresh, perfect blanc de blancs, while the older ones are absolutely fantastic, very well balanced and sophisticated due to the prolonged time spent into the bottle but still keeping their youthful style. This gives us a hint: this cuvée has an excellent potential to keep, I’d say for 15-20 years after degorgement. Maybe not longer because of its lower carbonic pressure. For the latest cuvées the most impressive characteristic is their minerality, the notes of caramel, biscuits and white flowers while the older versions feel more oily, with strong notes of brioche and peach compote, almonds, honey. Yeast hints are also present without overtaking. In both cases the finish is long and complex, I would say poetic for the older version.

CLB score

Mumm de Cramant (Latest Version)

92


Mumm de Cramant (Older Version)

94

*take a look at our CLB scoring

Type of champagneBrut
VintageNV
Grapes100% Chardonnay
MaisonMumm
Village/terroirCramant
DegorgementN/A
Aged6 years
Dosage6g
Sizebottle (75cl) – latest version
magnum (150cl) – older version
Number of bottlesN/A
Price range (euro)45-55 for the latest version
Chef de CavesLaurent Fresnet
Other considerentsmade after the “crémant de Cramant” method (4.5Kg pressure at 10ºC)

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