We tasted: Egly-Ouriet V.P.

When asked about a list of the best growers (récoltant-manipulant RM) in Champagne, without any doubts, we should think at maison Egly-Ouriet. The actual owner, Francis Egly, is the fourth generation in the family business. His skills in creating unique cuvées derivate from his deep understanding of the vines and terroir and the courage to experiment modern yet nature-friendly technics. Each cuvée of Egly-Ouriet tells a story, revealing the vibration of the vine, the minerality of the soil and finally, the care Francis applies when creating it. It’s like an orchestra where all individual artists get together, under the guidance of one maestro, to create an unforgettable symphony.

Egly-Ouriet, established since 1930 at Ambonnay, owns 15 hectares, the large majority in Montagne de Reims: 8 in Ambonnay and the rest in Bouzy, Verzenay and Vrigny (Vallée de la Marne). From their entire production 80% is Pinot Noir, 18% is Chardonnay and only a 2% is Pinot Meunier.

Now, let’s focus on this amazing cuvée, V.P. (vieillissement prolongé), a Grand Cru wine with a dosage kept to a minimum (Extra Brut, sugar less than 3 grams/L) so the expressions of the terroir and the characters developed through autolysis were not masked by sweetness. V.P. is an assemblage of three vintages: 20% from 2005, 40% from 2004 and 40% from 2007. It’s a blend of 70% Pinot Noir from Ambonnay, Bouzy and Verzenay and 30% Chardonnay from Ambonnay, all vinified in oak barrels. On the nose is strong and structured with clear notes of green apple, nuts, croissants, butter and citrus flowers. On the palate is vinous and deep, showing a vigorous character and a full and complex minerality. The symphony of flavours such as ripen apple, citrus, oak, smoke, toasted almonds, stone and mushrooms is accompanied by the superb, elegant and crisp bubbles. The long and dry aftertaste is dominated by its sublime and fresh minerality. Overall, it’s a beautiful, unique and complex champagne.