We tasted: Jacques Selosse Rosé

Tasting a creation of the genius Anselme Selosse, the actual owner and chef de cave at maison Jacques Selosse, is always an exquisite experience. Called “the terroireist of the champagne”, Anselme is driven by the idea of minimum intervention in the wine making process, so it can express freely the terroir. His ideas are based on the understanding of the nature, he considers himself not just a winemaker, but an interpreter of the nature thru his wines. He talks about himself as a land-loaner, the vines being his guests… when asked, for example, how many hectares he owns, he prefers to say how many individual vines he is hosting. Anselme has a special relationship with the vines and the surrounding nature and this is why his champagne is so different and special. His revelation came in 1976, when due to a very drought year, he decided to put only half of the sugar as the grapes were so ripe. He said he then found the freedom. And this was the starting point for staying connected so closely with his vines, resulting in wine of fabulous quality. This philosophy has however its roots in Anselme’s academic studies (he obtained a BTS degree in viticulture and enology at Beaune, and these years spent in Burgundy helped him better understand the finest processes of wine making). His methods in managing the vines/soil are based on the studies and recommendations of the world famous agricultural engineer Claude Bourguignon (the “father” of the biodynamic agriculture).

Almost all of the approximately 7,5 hectares, distributed in 54 lieux-dits, are Grand Cru Classé. Because of the environment-friendly methods Anselme uses, his production is 20-40% less than the average in Champagne region. For example, a part of the grapes are left to feed the soil; low-sulfur regime is employed; reserve wines are kept in cask, the bâttonage (stirring settled lees back into wine) is always employed; and malolactic fermentation is never used.

Now, after having written about the philosophy of Anselme Selosse, let’s focus on this outstanding cuvée (for some experts the best champagne rosé ever produced). On the nose the sensation is powerful, vivid which transports you into flower garden. Blooming rose buds, followed by notes of honey, pepper, raspberries, strawberries, crumbling limestone, and salinity. In the mouth is very complex, you’re invaded by a sublime wave of minerality, the sensation is long and deep, creamy and elegant, followed by the caress of its fine bubbles and electric acidity. Ripe mandarin blended in vanilla and caramel, pomegranate, pineapple and brioche. A nine-course Michelin 3-starred restaurant in one bottle. The aftertaste is poetical and makes you close your eyes and dream… It’s a champagne like never tasted before, and one of the most exclusive cuvées Jacques Selosse.